Post subject:DON'T DO IT! Swivel Stud in Forearm on 10/22 Synthetic???

I was told by a LGS gunsmith today that he would not install a swivel stud for a bipod. He told me the forearm section does not have enough substance to accommodate the pressure applied when folding up a bipod.
Then, I called Ruger and they emphatically told me they do not recommend it neither. They said to look for a bipod attachment option for the barrel band.
Does anyone know anything about this option???
Strangely enough, after the guy from Ruger made the recommendation, he could not point me in any direction.
HELP!!!
Thanks in advance!!!

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Post subject:Re: DON'T DO IT! Swivel Stud in Forearm on 10/22 Synthetic??

You can use a machine screw stud with a nut/washer on the inside, plenty sturdy unless your bipod is unusually stiff.
You can also attach a short section of picatinny rail to the fore-end (with screws/nuts), then use a bipod that attaches to a rail.

Post subject:Re: DON'T DO IT! Swivel Stud in Forearm on 10/22 Synthetic??

Know of anything about a picatenny rail barrel band setup?

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Post subject:Re: DON'T DO IT! Swivel Stud in Forearm on 10/22 Synthetic??

The type of sling stud with a machine screw & nut may not work either, if the forend section is thin.
There is a sling stud that goes in-between the barrel band, made by Uncle Mikes (I think,) that will allow the use of a Harris Bi-pod that clamps to these studs.

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Post subject:Re: DON'T DO IT! Swivel Stud in Forearm on 10/22 Synthetic??

'There is a sling stud that goes in-between the barrel band, made by Uncle Mikes (I think,) that will allow the use of a Harris Bi-pod that clamps to these studs.'
I use this type for sling attachment but have never tried adding a bipod.
If you try the fore arm mounted rail, you may need some sort of 'backer' inside-either thin flat washers or pour some epoxy in after the screws are in place(kind of makes it permanent but spare stocks are cheap).
My previous 'go to' 22 was the Remington Nylon 66 so I had similar problems mounting sling eyes. As a last resort, I got some Uncle Mikes threaded eyes (don't remember the thread-maybe #10 x ??) and D&T the stock. Then I mixed some epoxy and squirted some in the hole before threading the eye in place(a fairly tricky operation as the buttstock is sealed). Those have withstood decades of use and abuse and are still solidly in place.

Post subject:Re: DON'T DO IT! Swivel Stud in Forearm on 10/22 Synthetic??

I have done mine 2 ways,
Picatinny Barrel Band for the Ruger 10/22 - Black Nylon by Superior Concepts.
https://www.amazon.com/Picatinny-Barrel ... B004O9AGSE
I liked the 2 bolts and symmetry of this one but it did have a little give.
So then I went with the; ProMag Ruger 10/22 Carbine Tactical Barrel Band,
goofy looking but this thing is a nice part, rigid, and works great.
https://www.amazon.com/ProMag-Ruger-Car ... 69S670KKTC
Im not pushin Amazon but the links work.

Post subject:Re: DON'T DO IT! Swivel Stud in Forearm on 10/22 Synthetic??

Thanks for the info.
Have you installed a bipod on the bottom picatinny portion? If so, how well does it hold up? Does the band stay snug?

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Post subject:Re: DON'T DO IT! Swivel Stud in Forearm on 10/22 Synthetic??

Yes! You will be pleased.
I have mine installed in boat paddle stocks that were custom builds.

Post subject:Re: DON'T DO IT! Swivel Stud in Forearm on 10/22 Synthetic??

Well, here we have your local 'smith, and then Ruger follows with the same caution and recommends that you NOT install a swivel stud through the forearm. I can't see that any advice that follows, like, 'Go ahead and do it anyway', would be good advice.
The suggestion to use the barrel band, if the stock you have does indeed provide one, seems to me to be a better way to go at it. One thing that I've found when installing the Uncle Mike's swivel stud in the barrel band, is that some material on each side of the slot will need to be removed so the upper end of the swivel stud will fit in place.
I've only done this with the aluminum barrel bands and have never tried it with the plastic version, so, go at it cautiously if you decide to try it.

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Post subject:Re: DON'T DO IT! Swivel Stud in Forearm on 10/22 Synthetic??

Sending you a PM in your inbox here.

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Post subject:Re: DON'T DO IT! Sl Stud in Forearm on 10/22 Synthetic???

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Post subject:How to install sling swivel studs on a 10/22 TD or synthetic

There have been posts on how to put sling swivels on a 10/22 TD stock (applicable to synthetic stock as well.) but none showed how to reinforce the studs.
It is easy once you know how to access the inside of the butt stock.
If you intend to install a bipod or even a single point sling, just drilling a hole in the stock and screwing in a stud won't give the required strength to prevent it from pulling out.
The answer is to put in machine screw sling studs and reinforce them with epoxy putty.
First - getting into the butt stock.
Take a small fine bladed flat screwdriver and very carefully pry the butt plate out slightly. (It is NOT cemented in, it is a friction fit.)
Then use a wider blade flat screwdriver in the widened slot and give it a smack with the palm of your other hand and the butt plate will pop off.
Inside the fore end there is a bulkhead just back of where the barrel clamp fits. Locate your front sling stud there. Drill a 3/16' hole in the mould parting circle. (I missed by 1/32') you need enough room for the flat of the nut to clear the bulkhead.
On the butt stock locate the moulding centerline on the bottom of the stock, (it is faint but you can find it.) and make a small hole 11/4' in from the end edge.
Then carefully drill a 3/16' hole there.
Carefully scrub out the insides of the plastic with dish soap and an old tooth brush, to remove the release agent, which can keep the epoxy putty from sticking. Dry carefully. Use a file and rough the surface a bit around the screw and nut where you are going to put the mound of epoxy putty to give some grip to the epoxy. Install the sling studs, tighten, and then carefully pack around the stud screws and nut with a mound of JB epoxy putty.
Reassemble the stock to the receiver and barrel and after the epoxy has hardened - you are good to go.

Post subject:Re: How to install sling swivel studs on a 10/22 TD or synth

You will need two sets of Uncle Mikes sling swivel studs set. Toss the wood screw type in your parts box and use the two machine screw and nut studs.
Uncle Mike's Sling Swivel Stud 115 B Set

Post subject:Re: How to install sling swivel studs on a 10/22 TD or synth

Good write-up. I would recommend cleaning the area where the epoxy is with alcohol after washing with soap, just to be sure there is nothing left to prevent the epoxy from bonding, though.

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Post subject:Re: How to install sling swivel studs on a 10/22 TD or synth

My 10-22 Sling Kit, ( Uncle Mike's 1641-2) has a 'Barrel Band' connector. My 10-22 Takedown has a plastic barrel band. Inserting the connector BETWEEN the halves of the barrel band prevent it from being tightened down, and won't stay put. I had to enlarge the hole in the part provided, and attached it OUTSIDE the barrel band.
Option 'B': remove material from the half of the barrel band that doesn't have the recess for the nut.
I used 80 grit sandpaper, grit side against the part without the nut-recess. Takes 10 minutes.